Track Belle Colombe

Both our AIS tracking services seem to be having problems as we head further north. We have now decided to experiment with PredictWind's tracking offer which is in the box below. It uses GPS data sent hourly over the internet to PredictWind's servers and hence to a personalised web page. The layers option allows you to decide what you want to see - you can turn off the wind display and add satellite coverage if you want. It also allows us to post photos as we go.

As belt and braces we will also post our position as a date/time stamped Google maps links (hint -turn on satellite layer to get a better look at the landscape):

• 3rd and 4th June we were at the most northerly settlement on Iceland’s mainland - Raufarhofn

• 5th June - we are heading to the Viking Harbour at Leirhofn

• Our intention is to get to Grimsey Island - inside the Arctic Circle - on 6th June and watch the sun not set at midnight.

• We made it to Grimsey and are now (7th June) at Olafsfjordur

• 8th June and we are in Akureyri

• 10th June and we were alongside in Hrisy

• 11th June we were alongside in Siglufjordur

• 12th June anchored for the night here at Kalfshamarnes

• 13th June - up anchor at 1030 and heading west to anchor at Djupavik

• 14th June we pause in Bergistangi for the thermal baths at Krossnes

• 14th June - a spectacular entry to our anchorage in Hornvik

• 15th June - paused at Adalvik for lunch and a run ashore in the dinghy

• 15th June - and finished for the day anchored at the end of Hesteyrarfjordur

• 16th June and we are now in Isafjordur for the next three days. Crew change over, work on our Eberspacher heating system and the to-do list and letting the bad weather pass

• We are in Flateyri for the night, alongside. Despite the pump for the Ebspacher being fixed the heating is still unreliable. Resorting to generator and a ceramic heater.

• Anchored off Talknafjordur after a lovely sunny day sail under genoa only. Dinghy down for a run ashore.

• After a flat calm day of motoring we are anchored off Grundarfjordur where we celebrate the solstice at midnight with Icelandic Schnapps and very 'mature' shark as a traditional accompaniment.

• Another calm day - mostly motoring sees us anchored off Anarstapi in brilliant sunshine. Two hours in the stern locker has the Ebspracher diesel heater removed ready to go to a dealer in Reykjavik for fixing (hopefully).

• We have been in Reykjavik for a few days with some of the crew off salmon fishing on the Langa River. We now have a working heater thankfully. We are now holding for a weather window for our passage to Greenland - at the earliest we will be going on the morning of Monday 29th.

• We left Reykjavik at 1530 on 28th to find an anchorage and wait for a good weather window. The harbour was also getting full with other boats waiting. As of the 29th we are heading north to see if we can position ourselves better for the weather window for a 'launch' on Tuesday morning. We are being cautious - forecast is changeable and we do not want to arrive off Greenland in high winds.

• It is 1930 (local) on 29th June. We are heading north west and think we have found our weather window. So we will be turning west later and heading for Tasiilaq in Greenland with an ETA of Wednesday late pm. You can track us across on our PredictWind map below. Lamb curry for supper. Generator on to charge batteries and run our water maker.

• It is 2nd July. So - a good crossing with some challenging sailing but rewarded by calm seas, sunshine and a stately procession of icebergs (gallery link) on our approach to Tasiilaq yesterday evening. Now at anchor for a couple days with jobs to do and exploring to be done.

• 3rd July and we have headed off to explore some of the surrounding fjords. We anchored for lunch here. Now heading to Tillerilaaq to anchor for the night. Heater appears to be fixed - the final link in the chain was an undocumented fuel filter hidden on the end of the Ebspracher fuel pump. We have generated 120l of water through the desalinator so a hot flannel wash for everyone tonight!

• 4th July and we have left our anchorage at Tillerilaaq heading south west to Dannebrog through spectacular fjord scattered with icebergs.

• We have found our anchorage here. We had to run through some challenging ice conditions. Thought we had it easy with brash ice but then found ourselves in a field of 'bergy bits' - interesting sounds as the ice bumps along the hull and we found our way through the ice field. More pictures in our Greenland Gallery.

• It is Sunday 5th July. We have moved carefully out of our anchorage and managed to work our way through less ice than on the way in to begin our transit to Kiataq.

• 6th July. We got into our anchorage very late last night. Charts and pilot books not helpful in finding the supposed anchorage. So we took time to try and find good enough holding. Ended up here. Interesting that Google Maps and Google Earth with Satellite Layer are better than Navionics for coastal detail. We are now motoring south in sunshine and warmth. Yesterday's sea ice fields have vanished and now we are seeing just a few bergs and hearing the occasional thunder of glaciers calving.

• 6th July - the most perfect enclosed anchorage at Graaf's Haven with a spectacular approach up iceberg strewn fjords. Absolute peace in about 10 m of water although it took a while to find the right depth. Fricassee Chicken and plenty of red wine for supper.

• 7th July and a short run with a good sail across to another anchorage at the entrance to Sjkoldungesund. Have decided to have late lunch at stay here for the night. Sun is out and sleep to catch up on.

• 8th July and an uneventful motor along spectacular coastlines to our anchorage at the old Danish Weather Station at Timmiarmiut. Lamb curry for supper courtesy of Charles O and Tim has been brave and swum around the boat again.

• 9th July and we departed in bright sun. By midday the fog began to draw in and we had several hours of working our way through thick fog and wind on the nose. Luckily it cleared for a while to allow us to transit a field of bergy bits but then closed down again as we approached our anchorage. Our Navionics charts are really of little use for approaches as they are up to 400m or more astray against the GPS. Using Google maps or Google Earth with the satellite overlay to assist works well.

• 10th July - we spent a couple of hours working through ice that had accumulated outside the anchorage and then an uneventful motor in calm conditions to our current anchorage at Syenibugt. Small glaciers and even a beach.

• 11th July was a rainy and grey combination of motoring and sailing to our anchorage in SW Linden Fjord. But at least we managed to watch the last 40 minutes of the England Norway match.

• 12th July - awake to bright sunshine. Able to complete drying out of kit and then off to navigate the scenic archipelago around here on the way back to the sea and the entrance to Prince Christian Sund. Calm and sunny so far. Arrived in good weather at the old Danish Weather Station at the entrance to Prince Christian Sund and now alongside in glorious weather and greeted by Arctic Foxes.

• 13th July and an early start to transit Prince Christian Sund. An absolutely breathtaking experience working our way through in bright sunshine even if chilly. We were out the other side and anchored at Ikigait by 2000. Time to pause, read and then a substantial Cassoulet using a tin of the confit duck from France.

• 14 July we transited through thick fog to Nanortalik. We came alongside a Danish yacht with a family aboard that was returning to Denmark after 3 years sailing mainly in the Pacific. Very impressive - especially how many pairs of socks were drying on the rails! We refuelled at impressively low rates but could not find water. Hopeful our next stop will be able to allow us to replan. We have stocked up on fresh rations at the local supermarket and tried out the restaurant in the local hotel - perfectly acceptable.

• 15th July - up early and a cold transit to Qaqortoq via a Viking settlement planned. After a short walk around Qaqoretoq (museum closed on a Wednesday) we headed up to see the Hvalesy Viking Church. On the way there and out we found the fjord appeared to be favoured place for humpback whales - some good sightings of breaches. Now heading for our night time anchorage at Eqalugaarsuit Killuit.

• 16th July. A run to see the Viking settlement at Qassiarsuk - a really good anchorage if you wanted to stay overnight but we did not stay long as we needed to get to Narsaq to prepare for the jump off to Newfoundland when the weather permits. Hopefully we will get water trucked down to us, get the washing done at the local hotel and also use their showers.

• 17th July - Narsaq provided us with laundry ands showers (via the hotel) and Permagreen with water in a bowser and fuel. We left and anchored in Motzfeld Havn ready for the jump to Labrador in the morning.

• 18th July. Heading out into the Davis Strait. Conditions likely to be 'very bumpy' to start with. Follow us on the Predict Wind tracker below. Might not feel like updating this for the next couple of days! Hoping to make the Labrador Coast by the evening of 21st - where will depend the weather.

• 19th July at 1445Z and we are just over a third of the way across. It was quiet as we came out of the fjord system but as anticipated we ran into the weather system that accelerates around Cape Farewell and makes for rough conditions off the SW coast of Greenland. Two reefs in the main and staysail took us through that patch and by midnight conditions were less windy and more consistent. We are bowling along in about 15 knots of wind at about 7 knots. We anticipate that we might hit a calm patch later and have to motor. As we approach the Labrador coast we may have to cope with stronger winds and higher seas but given the good progress we are making may get in ahead of the worst of it.

• 21st July. Made it to Nain where we have booked in on the phone with the Canadian Border Service (took a while) , had a burger at the local hotel and done our washing. The start of our trip down the Labrador and Nova Scotia Coast. We were met by a Canadian SaR ice breaker as we emerged out of the fog to the coast who greeted us cheerfully, enquired after our well being and wished us well. They had obviously been watching us on the crossing which was nice to know. As we were enjoying an egg and bacon sandwich for breakfast we had clearly survived.

• 22nd July - out of Nain to start the journey south. We anchored in the Davis Inlet opposite the abandoned Innu settlement - a very sad story of the effects of enforced consolidation of a group of nomadic hunters.

• 23rd July - left at 0700 to be able to get through the narrows leading us south to the next sounds. Hoping to make good ground today - mostly motoring sadly but we have better hopes for sailing weather tomorrow. We stopped for lunch at Hopedale - fish and chips - and were shown around the Moravian Mission church and building. A lovely little settlement with very friendly people and well worth a stop at the jetty. After lunch onwards to an uncharted inlet to anchor (Hoare's Tickle) overnight. A stunning sunset and ready for an early start to take advantage of a sailing wind.

• 24th July. A beautiful warm windy day. Sailed in 20 knots of wind on the beam. Genoa only and then main and genoa and when wind dropped we got the gennaker up (with some shouting and faffing by the Outhwaite brothers on the foredeck!) Now at anchor at False Cape. Osso Bucco for supper and ready for an early start to take advantage of favourable winds.

• 25th July saw another idyllic sailing day take us down to Fish Cove for the night. On the way we dropped in at Edwards Harbour to say hello to the first yacht we had seen in 10 days - a Canadian couple anchored up. If you are on this part of the coast and need a good anchorage then definitely Edwards Harbour.

• 26th July and we stopped at Cartwright for supplies. Water on quay but not drinkable apparently so would need boiling. A small store and hotel. On then to Grady Harbour for the night. Woke to find Caribou on the island using the abandoned cabins as shelters.

• 27th July - transit to Squasho Run. An anchorage off a passage between two islands. Good holding in about 6m but approach complicated by small pot markers - size of red tennis balls and some black can markers. Crab and lobster pots are going to be a feature of there rest of the trip with very long trailing floating lines between marker and pit itself which is a considerable hazard.

• 28th July saw us at Battle Harbour - a conservation project and museum of the Labrador fishing community. Alongside overnight at a wooden pier reserved for visiting yachts amongst the restored buildings and exhibitions. A good shower is available but no other facilities. A restaurant is on site but seems to only open on advance notification.

• 29th saw us at L'Anse aux Meadows for lunch and a tour of the Viking settlement and exhibition centre. This is the end of the Viking Route - the last evidence of the Vikings in North America. Then on to St Anthony - alongside a pontoon opposite the hospital for the night.

• 30th July and we are in Englee, a small fishing port on the coast after a combination of motoring and sailing. Also managed to catch a couple of good size mackerel. A snug berth alongside, shower and laundry available and a well stocked store a few metres away. No bars or restaurants but a well presented tidy little town. Mackerel combined with a cod from the quayside and prawns from the store for a sustaining Goan Fish Curry.

• 31st July - rain..... but then wind and as good sail into La Scie. Another small fishing port. Visitors pontoons, shower and laundry but not much happening ashore apart from a 'Tea Room' and a snack bar. Comfortable night alongside, had a look at the water on the fishing dock on the way out but were not taken with the colour so a long desalinator run today

• 1st August - going to try and make St John's by Monday evening as poor weather due in on Tuesday so a series of quite long hops over next three days. We reached Fogo in good time - motoring the whole way as weather was on the nose. Fogo is the first place on this coast to come up trumps with a good restaurant. Bangbelly Bistro with Clyde and his team is highly recommended for atmosphere and food. Well worth booking a table in advance and only a short walk from the quay.

• 2nd August we were in Bonavista on a visitor's pontoon. There are showers and a laundry at the top of the pontoon with water and electricity available as well. It was the end of their week-long festival and we had a ringside seat for the fireworks display that evening. Supper ashore at the Skipper's Inn - you cannot book but have to take a table when it becomes available. If you leave it too late the best of the fresh seafood has gone and the rest is somewhat mundane. Off early on 3rd to get to Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club in Conception Bay.

• 3rd August - we arrived alongside at the service dock (only mooring available that could take us alongside) of the Royal Newfoundland Yacht Club. Peaceful evening with supper aboard. We will eat at the Cub tomorrow.

• 4th August - we had an invitation to visit the Newfoundland Distillery Co so left our berth and sailed over to visit them in the afternoon anchoring in a very shallow bay at Clarke's Beach and using the dinghy to get ashore. Then back to the RNYC for the night.

• 5th August and we set off for St John's. A cracking sail up to the entrance and then on in. We have been in for 2 nights (6th and 7th) working on boat - conversion to US shore power, getting new zips put into the doghouse cover and generally doing maintenance and cleaning. Two crew leave us and head back to UK leaving Lionel, Tim and Mark to do the last leg. Leaving on 7th heading over the next two or three days towards St Pierre and Miquelon. Weather is grey and wet!

• 7th August saw a glorious sail with the wind behind us and sun appearing in the afternoon. Now anchored south of Sleeper Point and to the east of Port Kirwan - not a marked anchorage and possibly vulnerable to swells but picturesque and good holding. Fog has come down and we can hear the foghorn south of us. For those of us who have been onboard since the start in Caen we have done 5000 miles to this point.

• 8th August saw us leaving our anchorage in calm seas and little wind. A motor, pausing only to switch off and drift for lunch and then head on to Trepassey to anchor for the night. A light wind allowed us to come in under genoa so we got some sailing.

• 9th August - a light winds/calm day so motored to Burin Bay to anchor in a small cove in a splendid, well sheltered natural harbour. Tomorrow we are off to France - or at least the French dependency islands of St Pierre and Miquelon. Looking forward to croissants and maybe a french restaurant..

• 10th August and we were alongside in St Pierre, brief french customs formalities and then good to go ashore. Some good bistros but nothing remarkable. Shore amenities were showers and laundry and we tested our new US shore pier connection set-up which seemed to work although there were some definite french vagaries so we will need to see what happens when we get back into Canada proper.

• 11th August and our intentions were to go to Miquelon but dense fog made us decide to give it a miss and we headed direct to Fortune (the closest formal reporting point) to sign back into Canada with the Border Agency as required as we had technically left Canada when we went to St Pierre. We were met by four large, well equipped, polite but very thorough coastal force RCMP officers who gave us a detailed check alongside and subsequently three rather more relaxed Border Officers. Provided all our stores stayed on board they were not worried about our cheese, meat or wine (phew!) Thence off to Brunette Island to anchor for the night - sailing in thick fog just until we approached our anchorage - and just as well as there as a nasty, uncharted part submerged rock in the middle which we avoided. It is visible on Google maps satellite overlay.

• 12th August and a foggy sail to Aviron Bay - with sun coming out for the last couple of hours. We are anchored right at the head of the bay close to a stunning waterfall which provided a soothing background to the night (apart from a period of gusting South Westerly which had us checking for anchor drag).

• 13th August saw bright, warm sunshine and little wind for a motor to the entrance to Connaire Bay where we anchored up at the mouth of the bay to avoid the 4 mile there and back motor up to the anchorage at the head of the bay. Held well in light swell.

• 14 August. Thunder and rain during the night. Raised anchor in pouring rain and little wind. Hoping to get to Channel-Port aux Basques later today.

• 15th August. We departed Channel-Port aux Basques early this morning for the run across the Cabot Strait to Nova Scotia. Clear skies and wind from North West so perfect sailing weather. Time for some housekeeping and confirming the winterisation checklist. Weather was so good- sun and a great sailing wind that we decided to make straight for the entrance to Bras d'Or narrows and get through them to anchor. We had been warned about tackling this passage on the ebb due to strong standing waves in the entrance. But we sailed through and Belle Colombe took it in her stride. However I would not recommend it for lighter or smaller boats and in high winds. We anchored inside the narrows for the night off New Campbellton.

• 16th August. Bright sun and calm winds and we are motoring to the Bras d'Or lakes today. We arrived at Baddeck in the afternoon after a pause for lunch. A small tourist and yachting venue with good restaurants and facilities in the Marina building. It is also home to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum which is only a short walk. There is a spacious pontoon alongside the Community Wharf which you should book ahead using Dockwa.

• 17th August and we anchored overnight in a small bay prior to running into St Peters at the head of the canal.

• 18th August and we tacked our way up to St Peter's to a small and friendly marina. We lost the bow thruster on the way in - one of the jubilee clips securing the hydraulic pump motor and broken and the subsequent vibration broke the positive electrical connection causing a short circuit. Hopefully we will get a spare part early on 18th - ordered from very helpful marina office.

• 19th August - with bow thruster fixed we made our way through St Peter's Canal and out to sea in driving rain and high winds. By mid-afternoon rain stopped, wind eased and thick fog surrounded us. We had to feel our way into Louse Harbour and anchor. We could hear the seals huffing and puffing nearby

• 20th August. Woke to brilliant sunshine and inquisitive seals. Motored and then sailed to the mouth of the Liscomb River arriving in thick fog. Then motored up the river to go alongside at the pontoon owned by the Liscomb Lodge Hotel and Resort. Supper ashore and then a peaceful night.

• 21st August and a windless motor to anchor off Myers Point. Eagles and Ospreys hunting around us.

• 22nd August and into Halifax Harbour to moor alongside on a pontoon at Foundation Wharf. A vibrant part of town but a nasty swell coming in and for the mooring fee no facilities either. Would not recommend it unless you really want to come up here. Perhaps go to Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron (where we are moving to on 23rd) and get an uber/taxi into the centre. A lot of rain forecast for Sunday.

• 23rd August. A motor and sail to The Roost - a perfect overnight anchorage in a very small sheltered inlet. We had lunch at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron but chose not to stay the night as the alongside fee for a boat of our length was steep.

• 24th August. We arrive at Chester after another foggy sail and anchor after some difficulty finding a good depth. We were greeted by David Creighton who came aboard just in time to partake of the lunchtime port. He and Mary hosted us that evening and we had supper together at the Rope Loft - much to be recommended. Finding our way back to the boat in the fog was 'interesting'. We have been cleaning down the boat as we go and slowly making progress.

• 25th August and we motored in sunshine to East River Shipyard our final destination. Dried the sails on the way, dropped the full anchor chain so we could clean out the anchor locker.

• 26th August - and that as they say is a 'wrap'. Final clean down of the boat, moving all the glass containers (our wine stocks) ashore to ensure it does not burst when it freezes. Showing the yard engineers where all the bits and pieces are. We leave this evening and they will lift the boat and winterise it in the next few weeks. 5,800 miles later this adventure is over.