The Faroes

Skipper's Update

Lionel H - 30/05/2026

We could have lingered longer in the Faeroes, enjoying the spectacular scenery, fjords and sounds and studying the abundant bird life; but a weather window to sail to Iceland suggests we leave now. The risk is too little wind; not too much and memories of having to motor the whole way across Biscay last year don’t fade.

We arrived last Sunday, missing the fierce rocks off the southern tip of Suduroy, sailing quickly with the genniker up. In Vágur there was nowhere open for a beer; slightly needed after 60 hours at sea; but the harbourmaster would not let us pay for our berth. A very brisk sail under heavily reefed sails took us to Tórshavn, passing some dramatic islands rising vertically from the water. Stóra Dímin has one farm on it and is supplied by helicopter.

In Tórshavn we were moored under the grass roofed parliament building. Unfortunately the Michelin starred restaurant, serving an 18 course tasting menu for £300 a head (ex wine) is booked up months ahead, so we had take pot luck and got very lucky with three fabulous meals ashore; superb food; but terrrifyingly expensive. After the first hit we decided that we couldn’t afford wines at more than £100 per bottle, so forced ourselves into a lot of pre-loading. Mr Gosselin’s stocks are lasting well, although his cheeses are gaining a somewhat ripe aroma. We lost three crew here: Charles, Tim and Julian and were joined by Caroline.

Of course, we are now in the heart of a Viking settlement and they had even left a compass to show us the way forward.

After a night on a quay with an (almost) impossibly tight entrance in Gøta, where there was a shop; but no bar or restaurant, wne circumnavigated the NE islands in calm seas, under power and enjoyed a scenic tour of the remote and beautiful landscape with high cliffs and steep slopes showing the tiers of basalt thrown up by successive volcanic eruptions a few years ago.

Huge numbers sea birds were on the water and flying about the cliffs, particularly on Fugloy (Bird Island) which has two very remote and inaccessible villages . We rounded Enniberg on Viöoy Island, the world’s highest headland, before spending the night at anchor at the head of Funningsfjord, a long way up a remote fjord, with steep sides and small patches of snow still aloft. It was a day of visual overload, if a little chilly.

Back to Torshavn for a crew change and another Faeroese feast, before a pit stop on Vágar near the airport, to collect Charles who abandoned ship for a few days and now on to Iceland.

We will leave this afternoon for Seydisfjördur, about 250 NM away, hoping the tail winds will be strong enough to sail it.